Photographs from a small group of islands
In the middle of Shibuya, it would seem that people are far more interested in graffiti than grocery shopping. Yet somehow, in some way, this fascinating little shop soldiers on, creating a bygone sanctuary of sorts amidst the noise and modernity of the busy streets nearby.
Maybe they were discussing the merits (or otherwise) of Tokyo 2020. There again, maybe they weren’t. But what does seem more certain is that after a long summer of standing dutifully together, the spark in their relationship has become somewhat dimmed.
Despite its much-touted modernity, Tokyo is a surprisingly traditional city — both in customs and attitude. And as such, even in Harajuku, that mecca of fashion and youth culture, it’s still possible to see timeless sights such as this.
Compared with many countries, the number of smokers in Japan is still relatively high, with the official figure as of July this year standing at 20.9% of the adult population. However, that said, Tokyo is no longer the smoking heaven it once was, as while it’s still pretty much a free for all in places where booze is the main preoccupation, plenty of regulations have been introduced elsewhere, including outside, on the street. The rules related to the latter in particular forcing desperate salarymen into clandestine and comically rushed smokes when away from the workplace.
Plus despite owning a hefty chunk of Japan Tobacco, the government has stated it plans to reduce the number of smokers to a seemingly overambitious 12% by 2023. Although with the current figures on a downward trend for the last 18 years, the powers that be at least have a fighting chance of sorts.
All of which, along with some serious competition from vending machines, convenience stores and supermarkets, means the capital’s quaint little neighbourhood tobacco kiosks are going to have a lot more days like this.
It’s probably fair to say that for the most part the Japanese are seen as wealthy, and generally speaking that’s relatively true. Or at least it was. As, for a growing number of people, they are anything but.
Decades of economic stagnation and a rapidly changing job market have arguably changed the country forever. The former security of a job for life has now disappeared for many, and has instead been replaced by an already large and continually growing number of part-time or temporary positions. Factors that have had a huge impact on countless millions of lives, making the former mantra of ‘we are all middle-class’ ring even more hollow.
However, it’s not just the amount of working poor on the rise, but the utterly destitute too. Figures show that the number of homeless in Tokyo is increasing, but in many ways such reports are unnecessary, as it’s painfully clear to see the growth in the city’s parks, near its train stations and under its bridges.
Isolated figures who may well get the full attention of the sun, but precious little from the society they were once a part of.
