Food and Drink

Public shows of affection between friends or lovers are relative rarities on the streets of Tokyo, with not much to be seen beyond the holding of hands. In fact even that isn’t so common, which made the scene below all the more special. A bar owner having a chat with one of his customers and then saying goodbye with a warm and clearly heartfelt hug.

A lovely moment played out on a little street that seems to be full of stories, with another I photographed in the same location living long in the memory, so it feels well worth revisiting again.

On a photowalk tour last year, a customer and I were taking pictures of the street, its signs and also a bicycle that unbeknownst to us belongs to the man in the last but one photo. And as he’d turned up early to set up for the evening, he invited us in for a quick look around, as well as treating us to a couple of songs. One a traditional enka number, and the other a far more familiar Hank Williams track.

Having lived overseas for a long time with his foreign partner, he had returned to Japan where they made a home for themselves in a more rural area. Cancer, however, cut his soulmate’s life short, so he took the bold move of selling up and opening his own bar. A place where he has the chance to sing, be himself, and in words of his that also sound like the lyrics from a Hank Williams song, “not feel so lonesome.”

Old and broken vending machines are some of my favourite finds. They have a strange sort of quiet dignity, plus their retro designs are always a treat. The ubiquitous modern versions, however, are simply that, ubiquitous, meaning they barely even register.

That said, they do occasionally offer a nice contrast to some less than salubrious surroundings, with their shiny modernity really making them stand out. So here then are some examples taken in different parts of Tokyo.

Culturally or otherwise, I’ve never had any kind of association with it, and in my entire life I can probably count on one hand the number of cans or bottles of the stuff I’ve drunk, and yet seeing old Coca-Cola signboards in Tokyo is always a genuine treat.

What specifically it is about about them I don’t really know, but their faded colours and textures are clearly a factor, as is the similarly dated nature of the buildings they are attached to. Then there’s that mix of East and West, plus in some cases at least, the rapidly encroaching modernity of the surroundings. All of which adds up to something really quite special, making them great to stumble upon and occasionally seek out.

Signs of the past that were rather appropriately photographed in places covering the city’s eastern suburbs out to its much more distant far west. Also, the first and last are very recent finds, with the others from years gone by, and apart from the fourth one, they are all happily still standing.

Shinjuku train station is the busiest in the world, and the nightlife spots in the areas surrounding it are similarly crowded. Blaring screens, signs and people everywhere make it as packed with revellers as it is brightly lit, and yet amid all the chaos and noise there are still quiet scenes to be enjoyed. Moments like the ones below that briefly at least defy the surroundings and offer something akin to a sense of calm. All of which were photographed over the last couple of weeks or so. A time when masks were officially deemed unnecessary, and things in Tokyo finally started to feel like they were getting back to normal.

This shuttered up old Tokyo liquor store is a joy to behold all by itself with its wonderfully rusted exterior and similarly decaying signs. But then add in the busted old vending machines and the retro window sticker, and it’s elevated to something really quite special. All of which was made even more appealing with an appearance by the owner as he headed out with his towel and toiletries to the local public bath.

A couple of years or so ago I took the first photograph. The scene really appealed, but as some customers turned up I didn’t get a chance to speak. Only a picture.

Returning last week, I was pleased to see the shop still there. The last of two businesses in a little alleyway that must have once been quite busy. And yet that said, it was both lovely and a little surprising to see a steady stream of youngsters turning up with their parents or grandparents. Many of the latter likely reliving their childhood days, as remarkably the shop has been in operation for 74 years. Even more incredible is that the owner has been there the whole time, and remains there undeterred at 94. A man who despite his age, and dealing with the public everyday, is quiet, and endearingly really quite shy.