Food and Drink

I photographed this lovely old take-out yakitori shop towards the end of 2022. A place I’d previously tried to capture on several occasions, but the light had always been unhelpful, and one time it had rather frustratingly been shut. So to finally record its real, retro beauty was genuinely pleasing. Even better was the ownership situation, prompting me to conclude my write-up with these uncharacteristically positive words:

“A little shop that has been serving freshly grilled chicken for 45 years. Another near half a century is hard to imagine, but with a younger family member now on board, many more years do remain a distinct possibility.”

Optimism that was sadly very much misplaced, as returning recently at a slightly different time of year, but at the same time of day, we found nothing except an empty plot of land.

This fabulously dated bit of Tokyo’s subway system has featured on Tokyo Times before. A fascinating taste of the past that somehow still survives amidst the network’s otherwise modern and mostly immaculate passageways. Parts of it remain unchanged for decades, with the DVD shop in particular a real novelty in this day and age, especially as it rather comically still boasts a slightly tucked away selection of adult titles. That said, a good number of businesses have changed over the years, with the bars featured here now looking quite different. The same goes for the oddly located vending machine, which was removed a while ago, and the abandoned space at the side of it is now incorporated into a cool little clothes shop.

However, such changes aside, its unique atmosphere remains intact, making it like nowhere else in the city, let alone just the subway system. The same goes for its distinctive smell too — a rather less appealing feature that can be particularly pungent during the summer months.

Finally, many of these photos were used in the last set, but others are new, or just new additions. A series of images prompted by the area appearing in Perfect Days, Wim Wenders latest film. An apt spot in so many ways, and a title very much befitting this truly wonderful location.

Quite a few of these old-style Chinese restaurants have appeared on Tokyo Times over the years. Some are still going strong, whereas others have sadly succumbed to the unrelenting passage of time. The latter is an increasingly common occurrence of late, as these types of places flourished in the post war years, so many are now both old, and run by similarly aged owners.

This one, however, is happily very much still in business despite opening way back in 1955. Needless to say it will eventually come to an end when the current, and final family member decides to call it a day, but until then, it’s a place that is an absolute joy with its quiet charm and old school simplicity.

It’s impossible to even guess how many times I must have walked past this lovely looking old sweet shop — both on my own, and on one of my Tokyo photowalk tours. A sight that due to its patched up nature and overgrown exterior never disappointed. There was the added bonus of the lovely little karaoke sign for the establishment next door too. The only problem was that upon turning the corner, there was always the very real chance of it not being there anymore. Partly because so many of Tokyo’s older structures are disappearing, but even more so due to the planned widening of the road, with this place slowly but surely becoming one of the last surviving hold outs.

And just recently that day sadly arrived. Initially the shop was simply shut with a sign posted saying thanks for all the custom, along with the added info that circumstances meant they had to close down after 50 years in business. Then not long after that the demolition crew arrived and unceremoniously started to tear it down. A scene that on the second day was made all the more poignant by the man on the left watching it all happen. His own shop once occupied the exact spot he was standing on, so I’ve included a photo of him working there back in the day.

But that was then and this is now, and sadly neither place exists anymore. Cars will undoubtedly travel by quicker in the future, but the journey itself will be a lot less interesting.

In many parts of the world, hygiene inspectors would probably (and admittedly quite rightly) put an immediate stop to this Tokyo gyoza shop the moment they set eyes upon it. And yet that said, it’s hardly unusual in its decidedly carefree approach to cleanliness. Something that’s very apparent in many of the bars and eating places I’ve featured before. An aspect of Japanese life that provides one of the country’s many contradictions, as despite the overwhelming adherence to rules, fundamentals such as basic kitchen hygiene can be happily considered inconsequential.

Not that I’m complaining. Quite the opposite in fact, as personally, I find such places absolutely fascinating. They are invariably very photogenic too. And just like pretty much all of them, the food this one makes is as delicious as the surroundings are dirty.