Photographs from a small group of islands
Considering the horribly cramped and stressful conditions of many trains in Tokyo, episodes of violence are surprisingly not the norm. That’s not to say they don’t happen of course, because they do, and feelings of irrational hatred towards other passengers are often clearly visible on scores of harassed, unhappy faces. What’s more, the trains don’t need to be busy either, as such sentiments can also be seen on quiet, weekend evening journeys.
Asakusa it certainly is. And a real geisha she most certainly isn’t. But what’s similarly certain is that the sight of her is still very striking.
The wait has been a long one, but after teasing us for a few weeks, spring has finally arrived in Tokyo. Noticeably warmer temperatures are obviously a sign, but perhaps even more than that, the fragrant and blooming plum blossoms prove it’s the real deal. A sight that’s beautiful in itself, but arguably even more so for what it represents — and represented.
Tokyo’s older, shitamachi districts, are generally friendlier, slower paced areas than their more modern, neon-lit neighbours. But now and again, suspicion it would seem still supersedes acceptance.
Territorial disputes and a hawkish new government have undoubtedly played their part in the recent rise of nationalism in Japan. Or if not nationalism itself, then certainly the rise in nationalist marches. A worrying trend that has understandably left many people wondering where Japan is heading.
Then throw in the faltering economy, tsunami reconstruction, an ageing population etc., plus of course Japan’s nuclear problems, and it’s a decidedly heady mix indeed. One that needless to say is perfectly suited to all manner of manipulation and scaremongering.
But despite all this, modern Japan is a very different beast than it was a century ago. And while nobody really knows where the country will eventually go, a cursory glance at the average Tokyoite makes it reassuringly hard to imagine that it’ll be back down those dark paths of old.
Or is that just hope taking an equally cursory glance at reality?