Photography

The best days of this old Tokyo shopping street are long gone. Back in the 1950s and 60s it was a bustling thoroughfare at the heart of the community, whereas these days it’s half shuttered up and a shiny new supermarket, which a whole host of buildings were demolished for, will likely cause even more closures.

None of which, it has to be said, takes anything away from its unique and faded charm, so below are some of the people I’ve photographed along it. A mixture of business owners and local shoppers — some taken many years ago, with others very recent. Only one is an image that’s arguably strong enough to work by itself, but as a set I feel they do tell something of a story. A little snapshot over time of the life of the street, along with the lives that have made it so special.

There are a lot of photos on these pages of Tokyo bars, homes and buildings that have disappeared forever. The city changes at a ferocious pace, and rightly or wrongly, there’s generally little time for sentiment. Old places are to be demolished. It mostly seems as simple as that.

All that said, Tokyo is a truly sprawling metropolis, meaning that while much is gone, a massive amount still remains. Like the fried food and meat shop below.

Five years have passed between the photos, with the evening one taken just recently. However, while the time of day might have been different, the building, food and even the suspicious stare, remain reassuringly the same.

Tokyo may well be blessed with an incredible train network that crisscrosses the metropolis, but the city is also surprisingly walkable, so on good days, meanders between specific locales have a lovely habit of conjuring up more surprises than the main destination. Such walks also provide the option of popping into a local neighbourhood eatery, and for the time being at least, that can very often mean an old school machi chuka. A type of Japanese-style Chinese restaurant that was ubiquitous in the post-war period, but the with the owners of such places invariably getting on in years to say the least, they are slowly disappearing.

While they last, however, they are places frequented by all kinds of people. Somewhere anyone can feel comfortable due to their relaxed, down to earth ambience. A sort of home from home feeling that is further added to by the fact that looks-wise, and despite many decades in business, many of them haven’t changed much at all. And with those elements in mind, this little glimpse of one such place ticks all the requisite boxes. For starters there’s the older couple with the man doing almost all the cooking. Then it’s also patched up with tape, the decor and menu haven’t been altered since inception, and perhaps most of all, there’s the pretty much standard, and now beautifully faded, red counter. A little sanctuary that, like the vast majority of such restaurants, is as full of soul as the food that’s served.