Photographs from a small group of islands
It’s that time of year again in Japan when fried chicken becomes inexplicably festive, and Last Christmas has been infuriatingly on loop since November first. But, whatever your choice of music and food, or even if you are a bit of humbug like me, I hope you have a very Merry Christmas!
Japan’s Prime Minister has seen his name attain worldwide recognition due to his trend-bucking Abenomics. Yet regardless of whether his policies prove in any way successful or not, his legacy almost certainly won’t be in the arena of economics, but in the clamping down of freedom, investigative reporting and whistleblowing.
With his government’s hugely controversial secrecy bill rammed through parliament this month, citizens will now cease to know — indefinitely if desired — what those in charge deem unnecessary, dangerous, or simply damaging. So anything that did and may happen at Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant will doubtless be put through the censorship filter, as will any unflattering scandals, human rights issues and regional squabbles. The latter of which the increasingly hawkish Abe is preparing for with a hefty increase in Japan’s already substantial military spending. The move couched in a very unsettling form of doublespeak — proactive pacifism.
But as worrying as the situation is, reassuringly people are still out there protesting. Both in large groups, or like this artist, alone.
The question is though, for how long?
Jizo are common sights in Tokyo — not to mention the whole of Japan. Little figures stood solemnly by the roadside. Or more often than not, in and around temples. Statues that along with watching out for youngsters and travellers, are far better known as the protectors of deceased children, including miscarried or stillborn infants. The belief being that Jizo hides them in his robes and then guides them safely to salvation.
However, invariably kitted out in red bibs and wooly hats, it’s easy to forget this sad reality behind the countless statues. Even more so the many people who dutifully go and pay respects to them. And yet at other times, it’s quite clearly, and very uncomfortably, the opposite.
Years of economic stagnation along with the demise of Japan’s ‘job for life’ system have well and truly destroyed the myth of the whole country being comfortably middle class. Factors that have also lead to a slowly fracturing society, and, combined with a growing temporary employment market, are creating an increasingly noticeable disparity between the rich and poor, the haves and have-nots. And nowhere is this more obvious than in Tokyo’s ultra wealthy Ginza district. An area that is home to flagship stores boasting the names of Louis Vuitton and the like, but now also those who don’t boast anything at all.
