Knives out, and daggers too.
Knives out in Tokyo
The real Tokyo?
A preference for neon, packed trains and teeming entertainment districts are common images of Tokyo — particularly so in foreign media outlets. They are images that don’t lie either, as that’s exactly what places like Shinjuku are like: bright, noisy and often busy beyond belief.
Yet at the same time, much of the city simply isn’t like that. Quite the opposite in fact. It’s quieter. Older in every sense of the word. Plus not nearly so busy. And in many ways, it is all the more interesting for it.
Ningyo kuyo: A Japanese doll funeral
Dolls feature fairly prominently in Japanese culture, from the ornamental hina ningyo of Girls’ Day (Hinamatsuri), to kokeshi, a popular souvenir. An importance that, along with the kanji for doll literally meaning ‘human form’, means they are very often treated differently than regular toys or ornaments.
Being a part of the family for years, as well as an integral element of a child’s upbringing, it is thought by some that dolls hold memories, or even have souls. As such, disposing of them can be very difficult, with many people feeling incapable of simply throwing them away — even believing there’ll be spiritual repercussions of some sort if they do. So ceremonies like ningyo kuyo — a kind of doll funeral — help owners say goodbye in a more dignified way. Prayers will be said. The dolls will be purified. And then the shrine or temple will deal with the disposal.
An event that makes for a slightly odd sight, as thousands of old companions and former family treasures are brought, displayed one last time, and then rather touchingly said goodbye to.
Chindonya: Old and colourful Japanese advertising
Flyers and/or lots of shouting are common forms of attracting trade in modern Tokyo, but in the post-war years, Chindonya were very common. A colourful, far more entertaining form of advertising that has sadly all but vanished, with only 25 troupes or so left in the whole country. But even now, like back in their heyday, the most common form of promotion is pachinko parlours.
A little Tokyo bar and lost time
Drinking in his favoured bar in Tokyo’s poorest neighbourhood, this old man may not have seen better days — or at least not any for a long time. But, like all of us, he has seen younger ones.
