Tokyo Times

The truly massive Tokyo Skytree — currently the second tallest structure in the world — and one of the many, far more humble buildings and homes, that surround it.

Kabukicho, Tokyo’s famous red light district, has been going through some changes of late. Huge redevelopment has left the place in danger of losing part of its character (like this wonderfully retro strip joint), and a city government crackdown has attempted to clean up some of the nefarious activities the area is known for.

Not that you’d necessarily notice when walking around. It’s still dirty. Dotted with dingy alleys. Plus densely populated by hostesses and touts. However, a newly announced ban on street solicitation could well make a difference, as the sheer number of the latter out on the streets do, for better or worse, contribute to the district’s personality. Of course how strictly the new regulations will be enforced remains to be seen, but it’s at least possible that these school girl uniforms won’t be on show — at least in public — for very much longer.

After a month away, returning to Japan towards the end of August makes the heat and humidity seem all the more intense. An unrelenting presence that wears one down and makes lethargy — not to mention constant sweating — the norm.

A situation that somewhat inevitably requires copious amounts of cold booze to cope, although when combined together, there can be complications.

Tsukiji fish market is best known for its huge tuna and their resultant carcasses, but arguably just as interesting are the old, rather ramshackle shops and stalls that surround it. A good number of which appear to be run by several generations of the same family, meaning some of those working there have more than earned the odd break.

There’s an awful lot to be said for Tokyo’s cleanliness, particularly in relation to its public transportation network. In fact the only real negative is a genuine lack of character — a certain sterility even — in regards the surroundings. A factor that always made me fond of this previously posted, and far from generic, entrance.

Since the photo was taken, however, it has been given a lick of paint and a general make over, resulting in it looking pretty much like all the rest. Yet all is not completely lost, as very close by I stumbled upon this surprisingly little used access point. Not as grubby, or even decrepit, but it does have a certain, slightly down on its luck charm.