Food and Drink

After months of continually extended states of emergency that mostly affected the nation’s bar and restaurant industry, restrictions have finally been relaxed, and life is once again a little bit more like it used to be. This may change of course as we head towards autumn, but for now at least, the option of enjoying an evening out is on again, and as my last outside drinks were on Christmas Day in the alleyway below (photos and audio here), it seemed entirely fitting that the first foray of 2021 should be at the same, wonderfully unique location.

With the lights, the drinks and the elaborately bouffanted hosts and hostesses, it was likely all very different the night before. In the decidedly less than forgiving light of lunch time the following day, however, the glamour had most definitely long gone.

The first photograph was taken over 12 months ago. It was quiet then, and it clearly has been for many years — the one-time shopping element of the street having long since gone. Nowadays, it’s almost entirely dated little karaoke bars, and the faint warbling of the generally older men who frequent such establishments can usually be heard. Tokyo’s virus-related and seemingly endless state of emergencies, however, have sadly changed even that, as none of the places were open when I took the second photo just recently. That said, with the number of vaccinated rapidly increasing, and infections seemingly under control, the suitably melancholy sound of enka will hopefully return once again.

This old Tokyo off-license has fascinated me for years. From the signs to the crates to the suitably askew awning — there’s just so much to like and take in. The trouble was, the shutters were almost always down, and even when they weren’t, there was never anybody about. Until last week that is, when the owner finally appeared, and with his retro helmet, traditional apron and trusty Honda Super Cub, it was all suddenly well worth the long wait.

Different generations and yet a surprisingly similar colour palette.