Many of the clichéd images of Tokyo distort what the capital is really like, or at least what it’s like if you bother to look below the surface. But the scenes of horribly packed trains and heaving streets are mostly accurate, particularly so in the city’s more central areas and its commuter hubs.
Mercifully, however, there are areas of escape. Like below, on Tokyo’s northern border, where there’s silence, serenity, and only the slightest suggestion of so-called civilisation.




