Tokyo Times

Photographs from a small group of islands

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Pre-war, bomb surviving, Tokyo substation in the snow

In 1945, as part of the United State’s strategic bombing of Japan, the Hitachi Aircraft Company in west Tokyo was hit 3 times, causing huge damage and the loss of over 100 lives. Against the odds, however, the substation below survived intact; its shrapnel pitted walls still giving away its past even today.

Now powering nothing, but instead surrounded by a park, it serves as a solemn reminder of very different times. And a building that during the second heavy snowstorm in the space of a week, had an odd, stark beauty.

Tokyo substation in the snow

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Uniform wearing nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Due to the controversy surrounding the enshrinement of 14 Class-A war criminals, Tokyo’s Yasukuni Shrine is rarely out of the news. And as such, the commonly named ‘war shrine’ is a constant source of tension between Japan and its neighbours, particularly when the Prime Minister opts to visit in an official capacity — fully aware of the anger it will cause.

Similarly, Yasukuni is also a focal point for Japan’s various nationalist organisations, especially so on politically sensitive, or culturally significant dates. Like yesterday, which was National Foundation Day.

A day that in many ways perfectly sums up the problems and contradictions of Yasukuni. In the morning, there was the regular flow of locals, tourists and veterans — all there to pay their respects or simply to take photographs and look around. Then shortly after lunch, a large number of uniform wearing nationalists were noisily bussed in. A group that once organised, marched in line up to the main shrine area.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Where they stood to attention.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Quietly observed the planned and carefully orchestrated ceremony.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Then did an about-face.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Moved flag bearers back up to the front.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

And then made a fairly speedy march back to the entrance.

Japanese nationalists at Yasukuni Shrine

Their exit once again leaving Yasukuni Shrine to the families and much less antagonistic visitors that it’s generally more accustomed to.

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A Tokyo shrine in the snow

It doesn’t snow all that often in Tokyo. And very rarely as much as it did over the weekend. So when it does, there’s the inevitable chaos and complaining: train services deteriorate, people still attempt to cycle, plus millions of others shiver in uninsulated homes.

But some of the benefits — at least initially — are that it makes an ugly city almost pretty. And pretty things quite beautiful.

Tokyo shrine in the snow

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A Tokyo ‘no nukes’, anti-government, protestor

Japan’s current regime may be against her. The same also goes for the likely winner of Sunday’s Tokyo gubernatorial election. Plus, with the country’s supposedly impartial public broadcaster, NHK, now unapologetically backing the government, there’s scant hope of her getting any coverage, too.

But still she fights for what she believes in: battling away against the powers that be. And with Japan shifting ever more worryingly to the right, this woman, and thankfully many more like her — whether they be anti-nuclear or pro-democracy protestors — will become increasingly important.

Japanese anti-nuclear protestor

Or at least that’s what one hopes.