Tokyo Times

May 17 2011 15 Comments

Sanya, home to Tokyo’s desperately poor day labourers

On the surface, Japan, despite its well documented, and now worsened, economic woes, still appears very wealthy; a place where lots of people continue to enjoy the rewards of those hard-working, bubble creating, businessmen and worker bees.

Dig a little deeper, however, and several very different layers of society can be seen, with a large number of those at the very bottom of the pile, in Tokyo at least, living in a part of the city once called Sanya, but which is now merely a section of Taito-ku. An area where incredibly grim-looking rooming houses abound, a large number of shops are boarded up — particularly in the wretched smelling shotengai — and those that are open for business have noticeably large stocks of instant noodles for sale.

Frequented by mostly day labourers, in what I believe is the biggest such district outside Osaka’s Kamagasaki, it’s hard to say what the population is, especially as it must be a very transient one, but what is for certain is that many of the men are of a certain age, and have a certain look.

Along with a life that appears to involve lots of wandering about.

Plus waiting, whether it be for work, washing or simply a way out.

Although as far as the latter is concerned, the opportunities must be very few and far between. The only real option for any kind of escape, at least when there’s a bit of money about, understandably coming through booze; bought and consumed where they are feasibly only a day or two away from — the street.

May 16 2011 7 Comments

Japanese baseball beer girl

After years of refusal, I recently popped my baseball cherry; a friend to explain the rules, and tickets for the wonderfully old Jingu Stadium, eventually proving just too much. Despite having a good day, however, it’s safe to say that it certainly won’t be dislodging football and cricket from my sporting affections. And, when it comes to television coverage, I’d still probably prefer a bit of kabaddi before bothering to see what’s happening at the ballpark.

Not live though. No chance. Yes, baseball drags on. Bits of it are incredibly boring too. But, and this is an absolutely colossal conjunction, there are beer girls. And, to paraphrase a suitably-related movie, if you call them, they will come — positively laden with lager.

May 13 2011 18 Comments

Cute as can be roadside rabbit barriers

At one time, cheekily winking frogs were the characters of choice when it came to avoiding any kind of roadwork-related calamity, but clearly they weren’t good enough, as they have now been replaced by these rather more serious looking, but presumably cuter, roadside rabbits.

May 11 2011 23 Comments

Mount Takao fire-walking festival

This year’s Mount Takao fire-walking festival was undoubtedly the most unusual matsuri I’ve ever been to. Not, however, due to its focus, but instead the date it was held — March 13th. Only 48 hours after the earthquake. A day when the full horror of the resultant tsunami was really beginning to hit home, along with increasing worries about the horrible potential of the crippled Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant.

All of which made for a slightly surreal, yet at the same time very cathartic experience. Simply being there, surrounded by other people, was undoubtedly helpful; the festival somehow acting as a reminder as well as an escape from events — both ongoing and past. Yet it was a day that I simply forgot. Or at least I did after posting a picture of the priest below praying at a ceremony that signalled the start of the proceedings.

Coming across the images again, however, not only brought back memories, but also surprised me, as, despite having no particular intent when I took the photographs, all the thoughts of those participating seem to be somewhere else. Somewhere further north.

Of course it could be purely coincidental, or simply me exaggerating what, in different circumstances, would just be regular expressions. But either way, it at least puts the festival into some kind of context.

One that in many ways was a welcome diversion, but at the same time a very reverential one.

When chants.

And what I presume are pilgrims.

Had extra meaning.

Culminating in the lighting of an enormous fire.

The heat and sound of which was quite incredible.

Then, when everything had been burnt, and what was left had become a fiercely glowing carpet, the priests and pilgrims took off their shoes and marched over it with no apparent hesitation whatsoever. A scene that frustratingly I couldn’t photograph, as there was no clear view.

In fact, only when the burning embers had sufficiently cooled down, and a path of sorts had been created, did I get the chance, as those watching were then allowed to walk across as well.

Which was still a fairly interesting and unusual sight.

Even a much-needed light-hearted one too, as this old lady almost appears to have taken a wrong turn when heading home from the shops, bizarrely finding herself hurrying barefoot over what was recently a bonfire.

May 10 2011 6 Comments

Tokyo Quadrophenia?

Admittedly it may not quite meet the Quadrophenia quota of mirrors. Or indeed the Mod-based angst of another era. But there is still something suitably moody about this man sat on his scooter. Sullenly staring. In Shinjuku.

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